What do you drive?

[goes_to_eleven]

2004 Chevy Tahoe. 143,000 miles. I do work at a value shop. And the consultants have noticed.

[anon47629474]

@king\_kong

^ no, everyone here seems comfortable with the size of their penis

why the attacks bro? namaste.

[anon47629474]

@Greenman72

@Charlie_Work

now a '17 Silverado 1500.

What trim?

Big Country or hacksaw.

LT baby. cloth interior.

[king_kong]

@Charlie_Work

@king\_kong

^ no, everyone here seems comfortable with the size of their penis

why the attacks bro? namaste.

Why should you be the only one allowed to troll on here?

[VWJETTY]

@Charlie_Work

nobody drives a pickup? You’re missing out. I went from a 3 series to an old avalanche and now a '17 Silverado 1500. I’ll never go back to a regular car.

I have a ford ranger (first post)

I’ve heard of ChrisFix on youtube, although I can’t say i’ve done any of his DIY projects. Always consult your Haynes repair manual to the T…torque specs included.

[thanatos0320]

2016 Chevy Cruze

[GorillaNerd]

1st car is 2007 camry. current car 2013 e class.

[whatsyourgovt]

@VWJETTY

@whatsyourgovt

@VWJETTY

clearly some bigger ballers here wow! i used to be a mechanic haha, so i hate Audis bc they’re a pain to work on.

what do you know about the timing chain tensioner?

They’re just like regular timing belt tensioners. You usually change them out when you do your timing belt (or in your case chain), water-pump, tensioner, auxiliary belt as part of your drivetrain maintenance.

But since yours is a chain, there is a high probability you drive something German (Audi, VW, BMW) and it’s going to be a pain to change because they’ll probably require transmission disassembly to get to it. I know a lot of people just replace the tension but after awhile the chain actually weakens, stretches, and can snap, which will cause havoc to your valve-train resulting in internal engine damage (piston colliding with your intake/exhaust valve).

my mechanic just charged me 1.5k to change the tensioner and correct chain / VVT. He said if i didnt it was likely to snap and completely destroy my engine.

[whatsyourgovt]

Mechanic > Plumber > PhD > CFA

[VWJETTY]

@whatsyourgovt

@VWJETTY

@whatsyourgovt

@VWJETTY

clearly some bigger ballers here wow! i used to be a mechanic haha, so i hate Audis bc they’re a pain to work on.

what do you know about the timing chain tensioner?

They’re just like regular timing belt tensioners. You usually change them out when you do your timing belt (or in your case chain), water-pump, tensioner, auxiliary belt as part of your drivetrain maintenance.

But since yours is a chain, there is a high probability you drive something German (Audi, VW, BMW) and it’s going to be a pain to change because they’ll probably require transmission disassembly to get to it. I know a lot of people just replace the tension but after awhile the chain actually weakens, stretches, and can snap, which will cause havoc to your valve-train resulting in internal engine damage (piston colliding with your intake/exhaust valve).

my mechanic just charged me 1.5k to change the tensioner and correct chain / VVT. He said if i didnt it was likely to snap and completely destroy my engine.

Variable Valve Timing (VVT) has nothing to do with your tensioner. VVT is simply just a modification to the operating cycle of your valve train once you reach a certain RPM range so as to increase torque/efficency because the computer will realize that at higher rev limits your car will need to increase the duration cycles of your intake/exhaust valve in order to accommodate for the larger volume of air input.

But he is correct that if your vehicle timing isn’t TDC (top dead center), which I imagine it wasn’t then your car would be operating less efficently if you drove it in. Maybe it was sputtering or bogging down under acceleration or something then it would have affected the longevity of your timing chain.

But for 1.5k, i’m sorry, you got robbed. Correcting timing isn’t a difficult job even on chains. Replacing chains is about that starting price when I used to do it on older Volkswagen with the VR6 powerplant.

[VWJETTY]

@whatsyourgovt

Mechanic > Plumber > PhD > CFA

Hahaha I wish that was the case. Would’ve saved me a ton of heachache learning all this jibberish

[ohai]

ChrisFix also has a Ford Ranger - actually the Mazda version, which is the same car but rebadged.

[whatsyourgovt]

@VWJETTY

@whatsyourgovt

@VWJETTY

@whatsyourgovt

@VWJETTY

clearly some bigger ballers here wow! i used to be a mechanic haha, so i hate Audis bc they’re a pain to work on.

what do you know about the timing chain tensioner?

They’re just like regular timing belt tensioners. You usually change them out when you do your timing belt (or in your case chain), water-pump, tensioner, auxiliary belt as part of your drivetrain maintenance.

But since yours is a chain, there is a high probability you drive something German (Audi, VW, BMW) and it’s going to be a pain to change because they’ll probably require transmission disassembly to get to it. I know a lot of people just replace the tension but after awhile the chain actually weakens, stretches, and can snap, which will cause havoc to your valve-train resulting in internal engine damage (piston colliding with your intake/exhaust valve).

my mechanic just charged me 1.5k to change the tensioner and correct chain / VVT. He said if i didnt it was likely to snap and completely destroy my engine.

Variable Valve Timing (VVT) has nothing to do with your tensioner. VVT is simply just a modification to the operating cycle of your valve train once you reach a certain RPM range so as to increase torque/efficency because the computer will realize that at higher rev limits your car will need to increase the duration cycles of your intake/exhaust valve in order to accommodate for the larger volume of air input.

But he is correct that if your vehicle timing isn’t TDC (top dead center), which I imagine it wasn’t then your car would be operating less efficently if you drove it in. Maybe it was sputtering or bogging down under acceleration or something then it would have affected the longevity of your timing chain.

But for 1.5k, i’m sorry, you got robbed. Correcting timing isn’t a difficult job even on chains. Replacing chains is about that starting price when I used to do it on older Volkswagen with the VR6 powerplant.

what would have been a good price to change the tensioner, belt, and VVT including parts and labour?

[whatsyourgovt]

There needs to be oversight into the auto repair market. Im hereby running for office - office of WC - on the platform that i will bring down the fraud in the mechanical market.

orrr business idea… full transparency into the mechanic market. A KBB, or truecar, full disclosure into what each repair should cost.

[Griingo]

^ just accept the fact that they saw you coming.

[whatsyourgovt]

@gringo\_bob

^ just accept the fact that they saw you coming.

Yeah thats true - i was looking for a new car to avoid this whole thing but hated shopping for new cars too. Im about to buy a ******* camel

[VWJETTY]

@whatsyourgovt

@VWJETTY

@whatsyourgovt

@VWJETTY

@whatsyourgovt

@VWJETTY

clearly some bigger ballers here wow! i used to be a mechanic haha, so i hate Audis bc they’re a pain to work on.

what do you know about the timing chain tensioner?

They’re just like regular timing belt tensioners. You usually change them out when you do your timing belt (or in your case chain), water-pump, tensioner, auxiliary belt as part of your drivetrain maintenance.

But since yours is a chain, there is a high probability you drive something German (Audi, VW, BMW) and it’s going to be a pain to change because they’ll probably require transmission disassembly to get to it. I know a lot of people just replace the tension but after awhile the chain actually weakens, stretches, and can snap, which will cause havoc to your valve-train resulting in internal engine damage (piston colliding with your intake/exhaust valve).

my mechanic just charged me 1.5k to change the tensioner and correct chain / VVT. He said if i didnt it was likely to snap and completely destroy my engine.

Variable Valve Timing (VVT) has nothing to do with your tensioner. VVT is simply just a modification to the operating cycle of your valve train once you reach a certain RPM range so as to increase torque/efficency because the computer will realize that at higher rev limits your car will need to increase the duration cycles of your intake/exhaust valve in order to accommodate for the larger volume of air input.

But he is correct that if your vehicle timing isn’t TDC (top dead center), which I imagine it wasn’t then your car would be operating less efficently if you drove it in. Maybe it was sputtering or bogging down under acceleration or something then it would have affected the longevity of your timing chain.

But for 1.5k, i’m sorry, you got robbed. Correcting timing isn’t a difficult job even on chains. Replacing chains is about that starting price when I used to do it on older Volkswagen with the VR6 powerplant.

what would have been a good price to change the tensioner, belt, and VVT including parts and labour?

it heavily depends on the price of the part. But assuming it was a Volkswagen, labor rate at about 60-70 an hour. 300 bucks max for a skilled mechanic. But that’s just how I used to charge customers on labor, which is consistent with how dealers would’ve quoted, except their going rate was much higher.

[VWJETTY]

@ohai

ChrisFix also has a Ford Ranger - actually the Mazda version, which is the same car but rebadged.

oh wow, I just watched his brake job on YouTube. Seems pretty good. Typical back-yard mechanic methods but it works and saves you in the long-run.

[rawraw]

I walk to work. But the two cars I own are a Toyota Corolla and Porsche 928

[krnyc2008]

@rawraw

I walk to work. But the two cars I own are a Toyota Corolla and Porsche 928

Why do you need two cars if you walk to work? Btw I thought you were in NYC.